Tuesday, 3 May 2011

Me-Made-June

You may have noticed a new widget having appeared over there on the right - I've signed up to Me-Made-June! Here's my pledge, which gives you an idea of what it is about:

I, Dilly, of dibulous.blogspot.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavour to wear at least one self-made or refashioned garment or accessory each day for the duration of June 2011.

The idea behind the wear-along is to challenge yourself to wear more of the clothes/accessories/etc you've made yourself/refashioned/etc, and is the brainchild of Zoe of So,Zo.... She's run three of these before, but I haven't joined in as I haven't felt I had enough self-made clothes/accessories to see me through a whole month. But lately I've been doing plenty of sewing, and have lots of plans for sewing in May so I think I will be fine. Got to practice taking pictures of myself though...

The obligatory royal wedding post...

Well, as a Brit (although living abroad), I gather I'm contractually obliged to comment on the royal wedding. And I have to say, despite being a staunch republican (in the British sense only!), I was absolutely glued to the TV the entire day...

However, not in the way that so many of the vox-pops on the news were expressing. It didn't make me particularly "proud to be British" (why would it? That confuses me). I didn't feel that somehow two rich and privileged young people getting married somehow gave the country hope (again, why would it?). No, I liked it for two reasons: empathy and voyeurism.

I have to admit to a little teariness as Catherine came down the aisle, and William said to her, "you look lovely, very beautiful" (probably anyway, courtesy of the lip-reading experts), but simply because they reminded me of myself and my husband and our wedding day. What, didn't you know we got married in Westminster Abbey in front of a global audience of millions, and I was wearing McQueen, and the Queen's tiara? Yeah, I don't mean that (I was of course wearing Vivienne Westwood, duh), but more that their story echoed ours - they met at university, lived together there, and have been together nearly ten years before getting married, just like us! I just loved the sheer genuine happiness that they both exuded, it was adorable.

As for voyeurism, who wouldn't want the chance to ogle the glamorous (and not so glamorous) fashion choices of some very rich ladies! These are my picks (mainly from what I observed on TV...!)

Low points:

Princesses Eugenie and Beatrice. These two always seem to make dreadful choices, it's very unfortunate. Apparently Eugenie was wearing Westwood, but the bodice shape and bows down the front made her look really rather dowdy, and the beigey colour that Beatrice chose washed her out completely (not to mention her odd hat).

SamCam and her lack of hat. WHAT WAS SHE THINKING?!

Camilla. Her outfit got lots of love from the BBC presenters, and was apparently the same designer as her own lovely wedding outfit. The colours and embroidery were very pretty, but I thought the placement of the colour change and embellishment around her hips with the very sharp pleats below this line made her look rather wide and shapeless. I think slightly more fitted with the embroidery line lowered a few inches would have been much more flattering. Her hat was nice though (Philip Treacy of course).

The Queen. Why does she wear such square clothes, and those horrible square hats? The colour was lovely though, and she did provide a high point on her arrival at the abbey, as she got out the car: "One doesn't need this blanket anymore - one will fling it on the floor."

Enough snarkiness and negativity, onto the high points:

Victoria Beckham. Embarrassing choice I know. Her dress (apparently from her own line) was weirdly shapeless and flattering at the same time, and how the hell did she wear those shoes whilst pregnant? But the hat was amazing.

Tara Palmer-Tompkinson. Another embarrassing choice, but she looked totally classy, and another amazing hat (OK, maybe the matching gloves and wrap were a bit much, but the dress and hat and shoes were great).

Paula Reed. Not even a guest at the wedding, but analysing the fashion choices of the guests for the BBC (she did a very cute squeal when it was confirmed that Catherine's dress was Sarah Burton), but her dress was just super. I loved the colour blocking of the patterns (pattern blocking?)

Update: She's wearing Pieter Pilotto. It appears to be the RTW version of this runway dress, but I can't find this particular one available anymore...

Karen Gordon (the Earl of Spencer's latest fiancée). I don't know how she saw anything from under her hat, but she looked super elegant.

Miriam González Durántez (Nick Clegg's wife). I think she's super hot, and whilst their were some fit issues with her dress, her hat looked stunning.

Philippa Middleton. Her matron of honour dress was beautiful - such a difficult shape of dress to wear, but looked stunning on her (and I so want to know what her underpinnings were. Not for any pervy reason of course, but so I can invest in something similar!). I also liked the buttons down the back, they prevented it being a coffin dress, and made it super sexy. It maybe could have done with being a centimetre or two shorter at the front as she had a couple of near trips. I noticed there was shock horror noises from some people (mainly Americans it seemed) that she was also wearing white, but in my mind this was no problem at all, and is actually quite normal for royal weddings - and looked much neater in the group with her sister and the baby bridesmaids. Her sister's dress was so spectacular and "bride-like" there was no chance of her upstaging it!

Update: Cidell has spotted that a knock-off pattern is already available!

Catherine Middleton. Well, analysis of her dress has been done to death, so here's one more! I loved her dress (apart from the unfortunate cold nipple effect). It wasn't exactly fashion-forward (it was blatantly a homage to Grace Kelly's wedding dress), and it was a long way from her usual more flowy and draped style, but it was elegant and timeless and very beautiful - not for her the embarrassing dated photos in ten years, like her late mother-in-law... I'm also hoping that it will curb the trend for strapless wedding dresses, so rarely flattering. My only issue was the tiara and veil - I thought the very simple veil had a hint of the dressing up box/net curtain about it, especially whilst it was over her face, and the dress and headgear didn't really seem to mesh together, although it definitely looked better once the veil was back rather than over her face. I also had issues with her being given away by her father (women as men's property...?!) but that's a whole other post.There's also huge amounts of pretty fascinating detail about the construction of the dress on the official website.

There also has to be special mention of the decorations inside Westminster Abbey - the freshness and simplicity of the floral decorations was beautiful, and I absolutely adored the trees lining the aisle, it looked like they were walking down a forest glade. Stunning.

Sunday, 1 May 2011

Musings on fitting

Does anyone else loathe fitting? Nothing else in sewing (or any other craft really) frustrates me as much as trying to work out how to adjust something to make it fit me correctly. Give me a BWOF pattern sheet to trace, or a vast playmat to quilt, or sharp cornered seams to match - just anything other than having to fit something on myself!

In conjunction with trying to work out the actual adjustments needed to translate from a "standard" shape to my very unstandard shape, I've been trying to work out what it is that frustrates me so much about it, in order to see if I can make it a little less painful (as there's really no point sewing clothes for myself if they don't fit well). Not to mention that I find myself putting off sewing as I'm dreading the fitting stage.

So I think my conclusions are:

  1. It's really hard to pin out alterations on yourself.
  2. It can be super frustrating trying to work out the correct alteration to fix problems, and having to keep taking garments on and off.
  3. A fair amount of frustration with fitting stems from dislike of my body.

So, what to do about these? I guess the first one is just something I have to live with (at least until my husband develops a hitherto hidden talent for basic sewing skills), and I'll just have to make better use of photos, and get used to taking things on and off much more to adjust them properly. I actually had a bit of a revelation about this recently, when it was pointed out that if I'm muslining, I can put the opening wherever is easiest for me to pin together - i.e. put it at the front rather than the back!

The second I guess will get better with experience, so for now I just have to suck it up and get on with it. To be honest, it's already better than it was when I started sewing as I have more understanding of how to "read" the toile to work out the fitting problems, and more of a library of alterations in my head in order to fix them. The books I currently use most to help with fitting are Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina, and The Collins Complete Book Of Needlecraft (OOP - I inherited this from my mum) - and also good old Google! There's such a wealth of information out there on the interwebs.

The third is a little more tricky, and is going to need rather more work. I've been making a few changes to my diet and activity levels, so even if I don't change size or shape much, I'll at least be reasonably healthy and know that my body reflects how I should be, rather than be simply a product of something I have done to myself with crap food and a sedentary lifestyle. Oh, and I'm starting to invest in good undies. I've also been looking more closely at other bloggers' pictures (haha how to make everyone self-conscious :) and realised that many of them aren't so different from me - I've realised that two bloggers in particular I especially admire are almost the same size as me (although slightly different shapes), and they both look completely fabulous! Therefore I obviously do too...!

What are everyone else's tips on fitting? What's your bugbear when sewing?

Friday, 29 April 2011

Pattern review - jeans skirt

Pattern description

Self-drafted jeans skirt.

Pattern sizing

This was drafted to my personal measurements, using a slightly modified version of the technique in "Metric Pattern Cutting" learnt at the custom pattern course at London College of Fashion.

Fabric used

Medium-weight stretch denim from A-One Fabrics on Goldhawk Road, with grey topstitching and dark grey rivets. The waistband facing and the pocket bag are made from grey cotton salvaged from a pillowcase.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Well, it looked like by sketch! (Incidentally, photographing this skirt on Wilma has alerted me to just how differently she is shaped compared to me. The skirt looks like it fits terribly on Wilma, but actually fits me perfectly.)

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I obviously didn't have any instructions, so before I started sewing I sat down and figured out the construction order, and wrote it all down so I didn't get confused. This was only my second attempt at a lapped zipper (the first was a disaster), and I'm very pleased with it.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

The perfect fit! This has given me more confidence in using my self-drafted patterns - I'm going to psych myself up to tackle a self-drafted top next time...

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

As drafted, the back vent was way too high, so that was lowered in construction, although I think I probably lowered it a couple of centimetres to far. When I tried it on for fitting during construction, I noticed the centre back was jutting out, so I raised the side seams on the back section.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I probably won't sew this exact same skirt again, but I'm definitely going to use my skirt block to draft more skirts for myself. I would highly recommend others drafting their own skirt block - fitting on this is very easy (much easier than the bodice), and alterations for a variety of styles are simple too.

Conclusion

I'm very pleased with this skirt. It was another wardrobe-hole filler and has been very successful, and has already got a lot of wear.

Wednesday, 27 April 2011

Pattern review - high-waisted black skirt

Pattern description

BWOF 1/2009/112

Pattern sizing

36-42. I cut the 42, but with a bit extra at the side seams - I measured the pattern flat and figured it would be ok as I was using a stretch fabric.

Fabric used

Black doubleknit bought in A-One Fabrics on Goldhawk Road. This was actually bought about 3 or 4 years ago for the express purpose of a high-waisted skirt, and I've finally got round to it! The yoke is interfaced with tricot fusible, and faced with lightweight black jersey.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Yep, pretty much, with a few tweaks.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, they were very clear, but it's a particularly easy pattern. I winged it on the exposed zip, using a RTW dress as a model.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

The silhouette is very flattering, and making it in stretch means it's very comfortable. The shaped and panelled yoke is a nice detail.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

I added about 2cm total at the side seams, but since making it I've lost a little weight (woohoo) and now need to take it in a bit). I think it could do with being pegged a bit more at the side and back seams as it's not quite as "pencil" shape as I was intending, so I will do this alteration when I take it in. The waistband facing is cut slightly smaller than the actual waistband to keep it from stretching. I added an exposed metal zipper, neatened with grosgrain ribbon. I didn't add the belt loops as I didn't want to add bulk to the waistband as I knew I wanted to wear a tops untucked with it. However, I might add thread chains as when I wore it with a belt I had to keep moving it around to keep it in place.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might make a variation on this design, maybe in a brightly coloured twill. I would definitely recommend it, it's a very flattering skirt, and very quick to cut and sew up.

Conclusion

I'm very pleased with this skirt. It was made to fill a hole in my wardrobe, and succeeded in that. I've worn it many times, and it's also versatile - worn with a pretty top tucked in it's great for evening, with a jersey tank it's a comfy daytime look.

Monday, 25 April 2011

Draping galore

As expected, the draping course was AMAZING. We covered the basics of draping, starting with preparing the stand and fabric. We draped a basic skirt and bodice, an A-line skirt, a circular skirt, a ruched front bodice, a sleeve and two collars. Doesn't sound very exciting, but it's provided the basics to understand how to manipulate the fabric into whatever I want! Well, maybe not quite anything just yet, but soon...

The teacher was excellent, and the other students were a very lovely bunch of ladies. (The weird thing is that one of the other students is moving to Switzerland too at the end of April! Unfortunately to Zürich, but hey, Switzerland's a small place...). Studying at the LCF is also very inspiring, surrounded by all the industrial machines, cool looking fashion students, and amazing fashion photography, and it's great having a proper workspace. Speaking of which...

Here's my workspace! I was so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take many pictures, in fact only three in total - here are the other two:

I'm now desperately looking for a reasonably priced dress form as I can't drape on Wilma - as she's adjustable, there's big gaps right where I need to mark and pin along the centre front and back and sides. I wonder if I can make a cover for her as an interim measure...?

After the course had finished, I had a morning in London to spare, so went to the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A with my mum. I didn't really know what to expect, or much about his clothes, but oh my, it was definitely the right thing to see after a course on draping on the stand! The clothes were beautiful and intriguing, and the best thing was that we could closely inspect them as they were laid out without any barriers or cases! Unfortunately photos weren't allowed (and I couldn't sneak any due to the burly Japanese security guards), so here's a few from the V&A website:

ETA - There's a very interesting "behind the scenes" blog on the V&A Yohji Yamamoto website, written by the exhibition curator, Ligaya Salazar.

Sunday, 10 April 2011

My very own "fashion week"

So, I've just landed at Heathrow to spend a week in London. And I'm very much looking forward to it - because I will be spending the week at the London College of Fashion on a course to learn how to drape on the stand! Squee!

I did a course a few years ago on personalised pattern cutting (i.e. making a block to your own measurements - or your client's - ha!), and it was great fun and I learnt an awful lot, so I can't wait to get started on this one. It was meant to be running last week, but had to be moved, and in doing so the location was moved, which I'm exceedingly pleased about, as instead of trekking over to Old Street every day, I'll be in my old stomping ground of Hammersmith/Shepherd's Bush, handily located for curries on King Street, shopping at Westfield, and of course fabric shopping at Goldhawk Road. I think I may end up paying some excess baggage on the way home - I'd intended to bring as little as possible in order to bring back vast quantities of fabric, but ended up bringing far too many clothes - well a girl has to have choices if she's spening a week at a fashion college!

In other news, I've been doing A LOT of sewing lately in the run up to this week - in the last ten days or so, I've sewn two skirts (one of which is a jeans skirt), one top, and altered a dress. Which is more than I sewed the entire of 2010 I think. Vie been on a major mojo bender - I've also planted up innumerable plants on our balconies, including lots and lots of veggie seeds. Hopefully this continues! I think the sunny weather has helped :)

I don't think I'm going to be able to post photos whilst I'm over here, so expect a glut of photo heavy posts on my return...