Jeans skirt re-re-make (bo selecta!)

One of my aims during this year in general, and Me-Made-May in particular (gosh, that was a long time ago, wasn't it!) was to make a new version of my self-drafted jeans skirt. I did actually make a new version just before the end of May, but it was sadly a disaster: the denim was too heavyweight, the redrafting I did made it way too tight at the waist, the zip was ripply and ugly, the front panel was off-grain, and it wasn't pegged enough. Urgh. Of course I discovered all this after finishing the whole thing, including topstitching and rivets... This was very frustrating, so it got put to one side (read: thrown into the corner) for a while until I mustered up the mental strength to make it again. I'm very glad I did, as this version has turned out great, and has had a lot of wear already (I actually finished it almost two months ago).

Pattern description

Self-drafted jeans skirt, with shaped side hip-yoke pockets, back vent, and back lapped zipper.

Fabric used

Lightweight stretch denim, probably from Fabric.com. Stretch cotton batiste for the pocket facings.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made/Drafting details

I have lost a little weight since I made the first skirt, so took in the skirt at all the vertical seams, redrafting the pocket pieces accordingly. I changed the waistband from a simple rectangle to a shaped waistband with the top of the waistband at the natural waist. Whilst I really liked the pockets on the first skirt, the line of the opening hit right at the widest point of my hips. I figured this wasn't the most flattering, so raised the curve of the pocket opening. I also pegged the bottom of the skirt, and added a little length.

Construction details

Generally the construction was much the same as the first one (sewn on the regular machine and the seam allowances finished with the serger), but with the following differences:

Waistband: I cut both the top and facing pieces from the denim to give it a bit more structure. I also used a jeans button instead of hook fastenings. The buttonhole is stitched with the topstitching thread, but despite practicing, it is not the neatest. It also would benefit from being a keyhole shape, but I can't do this on my machine.

Interfacing: Both the top and facing pieces of the waistband were interfaced with fusible tricot to help keep them from collapsing. Fusible tape was applied along the side seams where the pocket joins and along the centre back seam - both these areas had pulled badly in the first skirt.

Topstitching: I didn't topstitch the waistband, so that the stretch was maintained.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I'm sure I'll end up making another at some point in the future, but not just yet!

Conclusion

There's still a little bit of fine tuning needed to this pattern (mainly the back waistband), but this has already got plenty of wear.

Cowl neck top

Here's my July Burda Challenge! Although I'm posting it in August, I did actually make it on the very last day of July. You see it here worn with my re-re-make of my self-drafted jeans skirt, which I will make a post for shortly to show you the fit and details better.

Pattern description

BurdaStyle Magazine 07/2013/110: Loose-fitting sleeveless jersey top with gathered cowl at front and contrast straps.

Pattern sizing

36-44. I cut the 42.

Fabric used

A very drapey ITY knit from Fabric.com (I think it's poly), with a poly duchesse satin for the straps.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Pretty much, yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Hmm... I don't usually think Burda instructions are as bad as everyone makes them out to be, but these were actually pretty terrible, despite it being a very simple pattern with only 3 pieces! I got extremely confused by the instructions for sewing the cowl and facings...

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

... But once I'd figured them out, it actually gives a really nice finish! (Although I forgot to take any photos). Sadly, this nice finish doesn't extend into the strap attachment. I've spotted that Kristy also made this top and figured a simple and neat way of finishing the strap attachment and arms, by adding a back facing and sewing the straps on as the facings were sewn.

I like that the strap pieces are slightly shaped, rather than just rectangles - this is well drafted and means they don't slip off your shoulders. Be warned that the cowl is quite low - it's totally fine and flattering when you stand upright, but when you lean forward, there's a lot on view...

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

From flat pattern measurements, I could tell that the back was way too wide between the straps. I didn't want to change the loose fit too much, so I took the width out the centre back and added it on at the sides. I could have actually taken more out the centre and added less on the edge, but it's not too bad as it is. I also added a facing strip to the upper back edge, rather than just folding it over as suggested in the instructions.

I did a slight fudge FBA - I added a small amount in length at the level of the bust point, easing this to the shorter back side seam, and then just added width at the side at bust level. With the cowl neck though, it doesn't really need extra length added, so I'll take this out if I make it again.

I didn't want to add a centre back seam, so I did a slight swayback adjustment by rotating the back shoulder and neckline down (see the explanation for this here). There is still a lot of pooling at the small of my back, so I will probably increase this a bit if I sew this again - although I know I won't be able to completely get rid of this without a CB seam, as it's also because of a large bottom/back high hip, not just the swayback. I also shaped the side seams in a little at the waist, as I knew the rectangular shape as drafted is very unflattering on me.

Construction details

This was mostly constructed on the serger, using a three-thread overlock to reduce bulk at the seams and keep it drapey. I didn't bother to add the interfacing on the armholes and upper back as I didn't want it too stiff, and I figured the topstitching would keep these areas from stretching too much.

The straps are just serged to the back piece, with the seam allowance held downwards by the topstitching. The front of the straps are sewn to the front piece by hand. I think I will use Kristy's method if I make this again, as it would give a much neater finish.

I finished the hem with a rolled hem on the serger. I haven't used this much before, and I think I could probably do with tightening the looper tension a bit more so that it rolls more. Any advice is welcome from those who use this stitch more often...

I decided against adding the topstitching on the straps - with the patterned jersey, they looked much better plain.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would definitely recommend this to others. Even with the fiddling with the gathering and straps, it's super quick to sew, and looks very pretty. I may well actually sew this again as it's a versatile top and quick to make.

Conclusion

The last few projects I've posted on here I have felt extremely pleased with when I finished them, but when I've come to wear them they have disappointed me. Either the fit isn't as good as I thought, or it's uncomfortable to wear, or I don't have the right things to wear with it, etc etc... However, this top is actually useful and wearable. It can also be worn into autumn and winter under a cardie or jacket. Overall, a successful project.

Cowboy shirt-dress

After completing my May Burda Challenge, I thought I would crack on with my June one before it got too far into July... I've been thinking a lot lately about an old favourite sleeveless shirt-dress, which is now sadly too small. I bought it at a second-hand shop and (at the time!) it fitted like a glove. Or rather, like a well-fitted dress. I also loved it because it appeared to be hand-made (or possibly altered and hand-finished). It was lovely and always made me happy when wearing it.

Whilst looking for summer dress inspiration I also came across this dress from ModCloth, and fell in love with the print and Western styling.

When I saw the shirt-dress in the June Burda, I thought I could make something that draws inspiration from both of these. I rummaged through my collection of quilting cottons, and found a lovely Western print, which was perfect.

Pattern description

BurdaStyle Magazine 06/2013/120: Fitted shirt-dress with short sleeves, stand collar and shaped patch pockets.

Pattern sizing

36-44. I cut the 42 on top and graded out to the equivalent of 46 over the hips.

Fabric used

Quilting cotton bought many years ago from eQuilter.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Not really, as I made several design changes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

A bit mixed for this one. Most of it was fairly straightforward, but then the part where I actually needed the instructions (for the collar), were pretty opaque. For me, it required a bit of pinning and checking things ended up in the right place before sewing. It's the same finish as for the blouse I made for my March Burda Challenge, but with a collar with a separate stand piece. I'm sure the instructions are fine for anyone who's made a collar before! Something to note too is that (unless I'm being blind) there is no mention of finishing the long edges of the facings. I did this automatically, but it might catch out a beginner.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I rather like the collar on this pattern, it seems to fall nicely, although it sits a lot closer to the neck (and therefore higher) on me than in the pictures in the magazine. I really don't like the big patch pockets, but that was easily remedied by leaving them off.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

I wanted a sleeveless dress, so removed 5mm of ease at the side seam at the bottom of the armscye. I also reshaped the armscyes to give a slightly cut away shoulder.

I made a 2.5cm FBA. In order to do this, I traced the dart onto a separate piece of paper, then cut the pattern at the waistline. I could then do the FBA as normal, taking out some of the excess in the side seam rather than increasing the waist dart too much. I could then tape the skirt back on and re-trace the dart into the new position.

I tend to need a CB seam to get the fit right, especially in woven garments, so I added this, shaping it in at the waist and neck (and shortening the CB of the collar and stand by the equivalent amount). I also widened the darts at the waist (front and back) and made the back darts a few cm longer at the top. I made a 1cm swayback adjustment, remembering to add this length onto the bottom of the skirt at CB. I lengthened the entire dress by 4cm.

The only thing I really didn't like about the pattern was the shaped, wrap-around hip pockets, as I was rather worried they would just accentuate my hips. I chose to add in-seam pockets instead, and also a tie belt.

Construction details

The order of construction was the same as Burda's instructions, with a couple of detours to sew the pockets and finish the armscyes.

The pockets were sewn in the usual way for side seam pockets - Sewaholic has a nice tutorial that explains it much better than I could. I stabilised the front pocket openings with strips of selvedge.

I decided not to interface the collar at all as the quilting cotton is fairly sturdy, and I wanted a softer, more casual look. I cut the under-collar on the bias. There is also a seam in the middle of the inner collar stand, but that was just to make economical use of the fabric!

As marked, the top button is very low. I started the buttons just above the bust point level, and also added two more at the bottom. The buttonholes and buttons are reinforced with small rectangles of fusible interfacing, applied to the facing. Again, I didn't interface the entire facing, in order to keep a softer look.

The armscyes were finished with a bias tape facing and topstitched. I used shop bought satin bias tape for this and for the collar finish.

The topstitching was done with regular thread, but using the straight stretch stitch on my machine. This gives a nice effect, almost like saddle stitch (which is rather appropriate given the print pattern). I originally planned to create a faux Western-style pointed yoke on front and back with topstitching, but decided against it in the end. I added thread loops for the belt.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I probably won't sew this exact pattern again, at least not in the near future, simply because I have a vast array of shirt-dress patterns I want to try out. I definitely want to try a princess seamed dress (like my original inspiration dress), and one with a more shirt-like collar and placket (rather than lapels). As I made fairly significant changes to the fit, and converted it to a sleeveless dress, it's sort of hard to recommend it, as I don't know how the original pattern truly is! However, I do like the collar very much, which I essentially left unchanged, so I can recommend the pattern on that basis.

Conclusion

A second project in a row that I'm super pleased with! I like the fit I've achieved, a good balance of airy and flattering. There are still a few minor fit issues, and the bottom of the front darts are a bit iffy, but they sort of disappears in the folds of the fabric so I'm not too worried about that. It's still pretty good considering I didn't bother to muslin it. I also need to clip the back darts as they're pulling a bit, but I want to work out how I'm going to neaten/reinforce the clip before I do that.

I'm still searching for my perfect shirt-dress pattern, but I think this successfully captures the essence of both the inspiration dresses, without being an exact copy of either. This dress is definitely going to be worn lots this summer!

Oh, and here's bonus photo of my May Burda Challenge peplum cardi-jacket out and about. The top is also me-made, and those paper bags contain croissants...

Peplum cardie-jacket

I originally chose pattern 05/2013/101 for my May Burda Challenge, but this was a disaster, and I didn't finish it. (The details: it was ridiculously low cut, too short, too "maternity", and the strap placement was really wide. The whole thing looked generally awful on me. Plus the fabric I chose, a poly charmeuse, was horrible to work with.) So, after a little break, I reviewed the month's patterns again and picked out this one. I need more cardies and light jackets (making one was part of my extended MMM'13 challenge), and I realised that this would look quite smart made up in a more stable knit.

Pattern description

BurdaStyle Magazine 05/2013/109. Cardigan with gathered peplum and choice of short or long sleeves. Front fastening with either hooks and eyes, or loops and buttons.

Pattern sizing

36-44. I cut the 42.

Fabric used

RPL double knit from Fabric.com.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope when you were done?

Apart from the peplum, it looked pretty identical.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, pretty straightforward. The instructions for the finishing of the front edges and neck are a little awkwardly written, but it's clear what is intended. The instructions call for the sleeves to be set in, rather than put in flat, which is more usual in a knit. I did set them in, as I wanted to keep a smarter, more "jacket-y" look.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I really like the way of finishing the neckline and front edges. The tape along the front edge provides stability for the fastenings and the way the neckline binding is sewn means the finish is super neat.

I didn't like the amount of ease on the sleeve cap: 4.5cm - for a knit! I lowered the sleeve cap to reduce the ease to 2.5cm. Normally for a knit, I would have zero ease, but I wanted to keep a slightly smarter, more "tailored" look here. I didn't like that the peplum was gathered, so I drafted a new piece for this (see below). The gathering would probably be fine for a very slim person and in a very lightweight fabric, but I am not slim and the fabric I used was too thick to gather neatly. Also, be warned, the peplum is very very short if you use the dimensions given.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

As mentioned, I drafted a new peplum - this is effectively two semicircular pieces, drafted much the same way as circular skirt, with the centre front and back on grain. My peplum is 20cm long at the back and sides, and 18cm at the centre front. For me, I found this was long enough to wear with trousers, but short enough to wear with a skirt or dress.

As well as reducing the sleeve cap ease, also mentioned above, I made a dartless FBA, using the same method as I detailed previously. I added 1.5cm (per half) in width, and 2cm in length.

Construction details

All the exposed seams were constructed with my serger (or neatened with the serger in the case of setting in the sleeves). I used a poly grosgrain ribbon for the front facings and to reinforce the shoulder seams, and shop-bought satin bias binding for the neckline. I also made bias tubes for the button loops, rather than using cord as suggested.

The instructions leave the sleeve and peplum hems unfinished, but I didn't want this look. For the peplum I neatened the edges with the serger, then just turned up a narrow hem and topstitched it (with a single needle). I wanted to keep a bit of stretch in the sleeve hems, so I topstitched them with a twin needle.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would wholeheartedly recommend this pattern. I really like how this has turned out with the heavier knit, but I think it would look great in a light knit (as it was intended), so I may well be making another one! It's (mostly) fairly quick to sew up, and has only 4 pattern pieces. Super easy - although the binding needs attention so that it keeps accurate and neat.

Conclusion

At last, some sewing success!!! I'm super pleased with this, and I can already see it being extremely useful as a summer jacket/cover-up. I can't wait to wear it!

Mock wrap dress, v2.0

After a few less than successful garments over the last month, I wanted to sew something less frustrating. Being me it couldn't of course be something simple like a knit top, but I did keep it fairly straightforward by making a second version of the Simplicity mock-wrap dress. You can read the review of the pattern in my previous post, or over on Pattern Review, so I'm not going to repeat that here, just detail the changes I made.

I of course knew how the first version fit, so could make the pattern adjustments straight away. The first thing was to size it down on the top half - I had originally cut the 18 all over, but took it down to a 16. I also took out extra width on the right hand side of the underlapping side, so that the total corresponded to the amount I pinched out on the first version. To stop the gaping neckline I rotated a wedge out of the neck edge on each front piece to the side seam, where a bust dart would be, and then eased this excess when sewing it to the back pieces. I also raised the neckline by about 1cm at the centre front. I took a wedge out of the front and back sleeve pieces to reduce the space age pointiness of them, and added 6cm to the length of the skirt. I used a long tie again that attaches on the right hand side and wraps around the back of the dress.

I used a rayon blend jersey for this version. I think there's unfortunately a fair amount of polyester in this blend as it's a bit sweaty, but at least it means it doesn't sag or bag. Construction wise, this was fairly straightforward after making the first one. Well, apart from my serger stopping working halfway through (and having to spend 158CHF on a new foot pedal), but we'll gloss over that... Apart from the pleats and the topstitching this was all constructed on the serger. The neckline, bottom of the wrap and sleeve hems were finished in my usual manner with a folded strip of fabric serged on, and were then topstitched with a twin needle. The skirt hem was just folded over and topstitched with a twin needle (to be honest, the wrap hem should probably have been finished like this too).

I mentioned last time that I used a modified version of Trena's method for attaching the tie cleanly to the wrap-over half of the bodice, but I didn't actually say what I did differently! Not helpful for you, and also not helpful for me when I came to remake the dress! So... I serged the attachment seam as per Trena's method, but then serged the entire long side of the tie (as I like living dangerously) and slipstitched the short end closed.

I'm so pleased with the fit in this version, it's now pretty much spot on. I don't know whether I'll make it again though any time soon (as there's plenty of other new things I want to sew), but I may make a top version of it in the near future. The pictures in this post of me wearing it were taken at the Fête de la Musique here yesterday, so this also counts as my extended-MMM'13 post too!

Day 53

Dress: me-made (Simplicity 2369) | Necklace: Random shop in Hammersmith, London | Sandals: Aeschbach | Handbag: Manor | Drink: caipirinha

Worn: to listen to music, eat food, drink local apple juice, and enjoy the sunshine. And a bit of tourism for you: this is the Reformation Wall, built into the old city walls. It's in one of the parks where most of the music festival was being held, and commemorates the city's links with the Protestant Reformation movement in the 16th century.

Me-Made-May '13 update...

So... Been a bit quiet round here hasn't it...

I've been keeping up with my MMM'13 challenge reasonably well, although I haven't been taking photos terribly regularly of the outfits I have been wearing. This of course isn't very exciting for readers of my blog, as there's not many things to show you! Rather than do a day by day update, I'll just show you the pictures I do have of my clothes out in the wild. As mentioned in my sign-up pledge, I'm continuing into June.

Day 23

Top: me-made, but never blogged (self-drafted) | Jeans: H&M | Scarf: Accessorise

Day 27

Top: me-made (Sorbetto) | Vest top: H&M | Cardie: H&M | Jeans: Uniqlo | Necklace: Modcloth

Worn: to lunch with friends at the local "beach".

Day 32

Top: me-made (Sorbetto) | Jeans: H&M | Necklace: Random shop in Hammersmith, London

Worn: for sightseeing round Milan.

Day 36

Top: me-made, but never blogged (self-drafted) | Trousers: C&A | Scarf: Accessorise | Necklace: Randome shop in Hammersmith, London

Worn: to have lunch at a friend's and to lounge on her terrace.

Day 43

Dress: me-made (self-drafted) | Necklace: Alexander McQueen | Bracelet: ModCloth

Worn: for dinner in Luzern for our fourth wedding anniversary.

Other items that have also been making frequent appearances recently are: the blue and white mock wrap dress and the first version of the mock wrap knock-off, especially since it's been warming up. I've also sewn a few things recently, but sadly most have not turned out well... Two are salvageable I think, but at least one is going in the bin... Happily, I've also made another jersey dress, which is a complete success! I need to do a photo shoot of the various items, so keep an eye out for posts on them.

As for the part of my pledge to make some new items to fill holes in my wardrobe, I have made a new denim skirt, based on my self-drafted jeans skirt, but this was one of the bad items mentioned above. I made some slight changes (and made it from a heavier weight denim), and it's ended up not fitting perfectly. The front also sits oddly, and I've realised this may be because the grain isn't quite true. I'm going to re-cut the front panel, and will post about the skirt when it's replaced. Currently on my sewing table is a pair of shorts, and the next item from the list will either be a lightweight jacket (if I can decide on a pattern!) or a cardie.