Another Sorbetto

For details of the changes I made to the Sorbetto, see here.

Most of this is the same as the previous version, with a couple of exceptions. It was constructed with French seams throughout, and the neckline and armholes finished with an exposed bias facing in self-fabric. The fabric is more of the leopard print poly challis from my wedding reception decorations (also used for the Budapest dress)

I forgot until I'd sewn the seam that the last time I'd forgotten to add the seam allowance to the centre back seam, but the fit was actually fine, so I probably won't actually bother to modify the pattern piece after all. Next time I will, however, make a small adjustment for square shoulders by raising the shoulder seams at the top of the armscye.

I lengthened this version by about 2.5 inches, and curved the hem up at the side seams. However, when I tried it on after hemming it, I was hugely disappointed. It stuck out at the sides of the hems, giving it an incredibly unflattering triangular shape and making my hips look enormous. I had a little think about it in bed that night, and realised that (a) I needed to curve the hem up more to define the shape properly and (b) I needed to make allowance for the fact that at the "v" at the side seam the turn-up of the hem pulls away from the seam. The second point meant that I needed to make some little tabs to neaten this join. I didn't want to lose the "v" shape, so I traced this to shape the bottom of the tabs.

This fabric was a bloody nightmare at this point - I think it's a poly-based fabric, so it really doesn't crease well. Great when wearing, not so great when trying to make accurately shaped fiddly tabs (and had already caused problems when making the bias tape). I ended up having to baste all the seam allowances flat before sewing the tabs to the top. And even then they ended being enormously messy. Don't look too closely at that photo... But the effect worked, and I'm glad I spent the time to fiddle with this as it looks so much better. Next time I sew something with a curved hem I'll remember to true the seam allowances so I dont necessarily need to do the tabs!

The hem is actually the same length front and back on me - Wilma's somewhat flatter than I am so doesn't pull it up. I'm pleased with how this top turned out in the end, and although it's possibly not the truly most flattering shape on me, it's so comfortable, and perfect for keeping cool in the summer - and I've already worn it several times as a layering piece.